Sep, 10 2025
What happened in Kathmandu
Flames tore through one of Nepal's most important government sites after a youth-driven crowd overran security at Singh Durbar in Kathmandu and set parts of the complex ablaze. The blaze burned through the night and into the next day, with intense heat lingering for more than 24 hours. The incident marked the most dramatic turn yet in a wave of Nepal protests that has pushed anger from the streets into the heart of state power.
Singh Durbar, widely seen as the nerve center of the government and the site closely tied to parliament and top offices, became the focal point of a confrontation that had been building for weeks. Protesters—mostly from Generation Z—breached barricades and overwhelmed guards before fires took hold. Photos and video from the scene showed smoke towering over central Kathmandu as fire crews battled hotspots and tried to stop the damage from spreading deeper into the compound.
The army deployed across the capital soon after. Soldiers and police set up checkpoints on key roads, tightened access to government quarters, and urged people to avoid central districts. The priority, officials said, was to prevent further attacks on public buildings and to keep traffic corridors open for emergency vehicles. Even with the rollout of troops, the atmosphere in the city stayed tense, with sirens, closures, and unanswered questions about what would come next.
Authorities moved quickly to present the response as a security operation designed to contain violence and protect public property. But on the ground, the mood was unsettled. Businesses in several areas shut early. Government staff were told to stay home unless essential. The damage to Singh Durbar—long a symbol of state authority—carried a message the country could not ignore: the younger generation’s patience with the political status quo has thinned to a thread.
Firefighters struggled with flare-ups while investigators began the slow work of assessing what burned and how it started. Access to the inner courtyards was heavily restricted. Officials did not lay out a timeline for a full structural assessment, but they signaled it would take time to tally the losses. For a complex that houses critical offices and records, any disruption poses a challenge to day-to-day governance.
Travel shutdown, diplomatic fallout, and what's driving the anger
The shock of the attack on Singh Durbar was compounded by a citywide travel freeze. Tribhuvan International Airport, Nepal’s main international gateway, suspended operations, cutting the country off from overseas flights. That closure stranded visitors from multiple countries—among them roughly forty Indian pilgrims from Pune—who had come to Nepal to visit religious sites. "Flights are shut, and it feels unsafe outside," one stranded traveler said, describing a confusing wait for updates.
Airport managers began preliminary steps to reopen the facility, including security sweeps and coordination with carriers, but no firm restart time was given. Airlines asked for clarity on safety conditions. Air India, a key operator on the Kathmandu route, still had not confirmed when it would resume flights. That left hundreds of passengers checking phones and boards for guidance that didn’t come.
Inside the airport, staff tried to keep essential services running—water, food counters, basic medical help—while advising passengers to remain near official information points. Outside, ground transport was patchy as police diverted traffic and drivers avoided tense areas. Hotels near the airport booked up quickly, and tour operators scrambled to rework itineraries for groups caught in the shutdown.
For Nepal’s neighbors, the situation carried immediate diplomatic stakes. India, which saw its citizens stranded, watched events closely. Other regional missions weighed their options too, from advising nationals to shelter in place to mapping safe routes out of the capital once flights resumed. The regional ripple effects were obvious: tourism plans overturned, trade shipments delayed, and a line of aircraft waiting on green lights that didn’t come.
Behind the spectacle of burning buildings is a harder story: why the streets exploded. Protesters say they are fed up with leadership they view as unresponsive and slow to deliver. The demands span a wide range—accountability from officials, more reliable public services, and prospects for decent jobs at home. Young people, who form a large share of Nepal’s population, have also pushed back against what they call a cycle of promises without follow-through.
Digital organizing has been central. Messaging channels and social platforms helped mobilize crowds within hours, coordinate meeting points, and circulate footage that fueled momentum. The speed of that mobilization surprised authorities and left security forces racing to keep up. What began as rallies and sit-ins turned into confrontations, and then, this week, into a direct strike on the seat of government power.
That escalation leaves the government with a narrow path. Security measures can stabilize the streets, but they risk creating the impression of a crackdown if not carefully managed. Protesters’ willingness to deploy dramatic tactics—to be seen and heard beyond the usual protest sites—means negotiations will be tricky. The fact that the fires burned for more than a full day underscores how quickly order can give way to chaos when a crowd outpaces the response.
The shutdown at Tribhuvan is a practical illustration of the fallout. Nepal’s tourism economy relies on predictable access, especially during peak trekking and pilgrimage seasons. With flights grounded, guides, hotels, and small businesses lose bookings they won’t recover. Pilgrims and trekkers face missed connections and unexpected costs. For many travelers, insurance may cover some expenses, but delays and uncertainty are tougher to fix.
For residents, daily life also shifted. Public transport routes were rerouted or suspended, exams and classes were postponed, and government counters offering basic services worked with reduced staff or closed entirely. In neighborhoods near the government district, families stocked up on essentials to avoid repeated trips into the city center. Rumors swirled online, adding to the confusion.
Even as the army presence grew, officials signaled they were trying to avoid broad restrictions that might inflame tempers further. They focused on protecting government properties, managing choke points, and clearing debris around Singh Durbar to allow fire crews and inspectors to move safely. Medical teams prepared for surges in cases related to smoke inhalation and minor injuries, and hospitals set aside beds as a precaution.
The political stakes are high. An arson attack on a flagship government complex isn’t just property damage; it’s a challenge to authority and a test of legitimacy. If the response leans only on force, the risk of spirals is real. If the response includes credible steps to listen and address specific grievances, momentum could shift. Either way, the images of fire at Singh Durbar will frame the debate for weeks.
For people stuck in Kathmandu and trying to make sense of the logistics, here’s the short version of what matters in the near term:
- Expect only gradual reopening at Tribhuvan International Airport. Security checks and coordination with airlines take time, even after an initial green light.
- Airlines will move in phases. Watch for limited flights before normal schedules resume. Carriers, including Air India, haven’t confirmed restart times.
- Keep documentation ready. Travelers should have identification, tickets, and booking details on hand when the airport reopens.
- Stay away from government districts and major intersections where security forces are concentrated, and follow official instructions on road closures.
- If you’re traveling with a group—pilgrims, trekkers, or students—stick together and designate one person to track updates and speak with authorities.
What to watch next? Three things. First, how quickly the airport can return to regular operations and whether carriers commit to firm schedules. Second, whether protests spread to other cities or fade as security tightens in the capital. Third, what the government offers beyond patrols—concrete steps that speak to the frustrations that brought thousands into the streets.
Kathmandu has seen upheaval before, but the scale and speed of this week’s events feel different. A younger, connected generation is steering the conversation and making clear it won’t wait in silence. The fire at Singh Durbar may go out, but the questions it lit up—about leadership, delivery, and trust—will keep burning until someone answers them with more than speeches.